Inspection 2/18/11

Mary & Myrina
75°F
Partly Sunny
Slight breeze

The first inspection of 2011.  The colonies have looked good all Winter.  Now was time to see first hand.  Though there were some clouds out and a slight breeze at 75°F today would be good enough.

I started by opening up Mary.  The bees had again gnawed on the insulation near the single vent hole in the Vent Box.  They had not chewed anywhere else though.  So that's an improvement over regular Styrofoam.  I still want to try the foil backed fiber sheets next year.  There was also some very minor bee poop on the top of the Inner Cover; probably from December.  As of yet i have no plans to treat with Fumagilin this Spring.  I'd like not to, so unless there are signs of Nosema i won't.

Under the IC was the pollen patty placed there in January.  The bees were working on it but nearly all of it was still there.  A previous post mentions the bees were bringing in pollen.  I expected the bees to eat more of the pollen patties before now.  They just don't seem to like it much.  I took it out since they'll not be needing it any more.  

The bee are not yet on top of the frames in the top box.  They're in them but with plenty of store left above and around them.  Looking down the cluster is on 7 of the frames to the left (east) side.

DHB2 - still some room left to go

The TOP BOX (DHB2):
10 - Full honey
 9 - Full honey
 8 - Full honey
 7 - Full honey
 6 - Full honey
 5 - 1/2 honey, new pollen, in cluster
 4 - 1/2 honey, new pollen, in cluster
 3 - 1/2 honey, new pollen, in cluster
 2 - 1/2 honey, new pollen, in cluster
 1 - 1/2 honey, new pollen, in cluster

-

DHB1 - this is where most of the bees are

BOTTOM BOX (DHB1):
10 - Full honey
 9 - Full honey
 8 - 4/5 honey
 7 - 1/2 honey
 6 - 1/5 honey
 5 - 1/4 brood, new pollen, in cluster
 4 - 1/4 brood, new pollen, in cluster
 3 - 2/3 brood, new pollen, in cluster, QUEEN
 2 - 1/4 honey
 1 - Full honey

New incoming Nectar & some Pollen

I'd like to find out where the yellow pollen is coming from.  The Silver maple pollen has a dull green color.  Whatever it is there must be a lot of it.  I suspect a Pussy Willow but I've not located it yet.  I have 5 of my own but they're seedlings so not in bloom.  The Nectar is likely from the Maple though.

Beautiful Early Brood frame

Last year I didn't see brood until March 20th.  So this year is quite early.  It has been warm and the bees have been flying since the 11th of Feb.  Still this is a great sight to see in.  The guy who sold me these queens last year told me they would brood up early and to watch out for swarming.  So i'll be getting the nucs ready soon.

Queen Mary herself on frame #3

There's that hard working queen.  Marked with 2010 blue.  It's an easy color to pick out.  This year is white which i hope will still be easy to see.  I might, like some, skip yellow and use a purple when it's time.


Then Myrina
Her bees were almost on top of the frames in the top box.  Not entirely but close.  They've almost gone through all their stores.  Here too the bees did not consume much of the Pollen patty.  It too was thrown away.  I was going to buy a case of these things to feed to the bees this Spring.  I'm glad i hadn't done it yet.  I don't think i'll bother with them next year either.  I started feeding syrup today as well.  With that & pollen & nectar coming into the hive they will be good going forward.

Bees not covering the top & useless pollen patty

The TOP BOX (DHB1):
10 - Honey, not fully drawn
 9 - Full honey
 8 - 4/5 honey
 7 - Full honey
 6 - Full honey, old & new pollen
 5 - 1/4 Brood, new pollen, in cluster
 4 - 1/4 Brood, new pollen, in cluster
 3 - 1/4 Brood, new pollen, in cluster
 2 - 3/5 honey, new pollen, in cluster
 1 - 4/5 honey, new pollen, in cluster

DHB1 - Lots of brood on the old frames

All fresh Pollen

BOTTOM BOX (DHB2):
10 - Empty, mildew
 9 - 1/5 honey, mildew
 8 - 1/3 honey
 7 - 1/2 honey
 6 - 1/2 honey, new pollen, in cluster
 5 - Mostly empty, not fully drawn
 4 - Mostly empty, new pollen, in cluster
 3 - Mostly empty, new pollen, in cluster
 2 - Undrawn
 1 - (oops, didn't record)

Myrina's bottom box

Myrina's bottom bottom box is having a mildew problem.  The right corner (west side) has a coating of the dark greenish stuff over the whole side.  Frames 10 & 9 are also affected.  The wood bars and a little on the wax comb too.  The box is from 2008 and has been fully waxed by the bees but the mildew's on the comb too.  I think the source of the mildew is the unpainted piece of luan board under the screened bottom board.  The moisture of the Winter hive settling on it each day may have started the process.  I think it then spread upwards from there.  I don't plan on opening the SBB until the nightly lows are in the 60°'s.  I'll replace the sheet with a painted one soon.

Mildew, box & comb

Top boxes are a common place for a queen to start laying in Spring but all the brood is in the oldest frames in the hive.  The current brood frames are the only remaining equipment from the old farmers apiary.  The comb is dark and the frames are rough and chipped.  I wonder if such old comb is desired by the queen for laying eggs?  I'll need to read up on it.

Feeding time again

After the inspection I added the hive top feeders to each hive.  Then filled them with a gallon each of the 1:1 syrup/tea I've made.  It looks like a good start to the year. 

*

Bee Tea

With Spring comes early feeding with 1:1 sugar syrup.  Last year i first read about bee tea.  Essentially a brewed/steeped tea made from anything good for bees.  To promote health mainly.  One can either add it to the syrup or sweeten it with a little sugar and feed it separately from the syrup.  Many use essential oils in the tea.  I'm not a fan of essential oils, however.  The Tea is a way i can add nutrition to the sugar syrup without blasting the hive away with lemon grass oil or the like.  Lets face it sugar syrup is like feeding your kids nothing but soda pop.  The bees love the sugar but I'd like them to get more out of it.

As far as I'm concerned the ingredients for this recipe should change depending on what sources of nectar are naturally available.  This way the tea reflects what the bees are looking for.  I assume Maples bloom in Spring because they have what bees need the most in Spring. (Evolved over millions & millions of years)  It may be a leap for some but it who am i to second guess nature.
 
Therefore at this time the tea is made of whatever blooms first in this area:  Willow, Maple, Elm, Cherry, Pear, Plum, Sassafras, & Red Bud.  I also added two primary flow sources: Yellow Poplar & Basswood, but any combination will do.  This week the recipe is Maple, Poplar, & Basswood.  Next week will be Willow, Elm, Red Bud, & Poplar.  I'm very leery of giving a tea made from Sassafras to the bees since it is a known psychoactive.  A sprig of Thyme and 2 tbs of Bragg's Apple Cider Vinegar are also added per gallon.  These can help with Varroa & Nosema plus the ACV keeps the syrup from spoiling.

Unsure of all this an experiment was in order.  I made a syrup/tea and a non-syrup/tea out of Yellow Poplar and set it out for the bees.  The bees hit the syrup as one would expect.  Alright, so I know they will take it, that's good.  They also did a good job on the non-syrup/tea.  They about hit it as hard.  So it looks like this might work.  Now to make some tea...

The procedure:
First i collect wood rounds from the target woody plants with a chainsaw.  Disks of a ½" in thickness are good.  I cut them from saplings so there is no heartwood present.  Heartwood is where a tree places it's metabolic wastes.  Small saplings will not have accumulated enough yet.

2 Rounds of each species per gallon.  Maple & Poplar

Second i remove the bark.  The inner wood, called xylem, transports liquids and material up into a tree.  The nectar that is found in a tree flower has gotten there via this tissue.  Bark, called phloem, transports nutrients down to the roots.  Since bees feed from flowers not roots I'll go with the xylem.

Use Caution cutting green wood with a ban saw

Then the debarked rounds get cut up into small bits to increase surface area.

All 4 rounds

There are only 2 Basswoods that I know of around here and neither one am i willing to harm.  Fortunately the local health food store has a great selection of 'Frontier' herbs which include dried Basswood flowers.  A half ounce cost $0.35.  Plus they have lots of other things I'll be adding at some point.  So I divided it and put each half in 1 gallon.  After all I'm feeding 2 colonies so I'll need 2 gallons.

Not fresh but they still had a fragrance

The last ingredient this week was the Thyme.  My Wife grows it on the back deck so what i have is freshly picked.  I took what i thought might equal a drop or two of essential oil.

The tea smells like sausage???

Once the ingredients are ready i put the water in the pot.  To make a total gallon of 1:1 syrup i start with 2qts & 15oz. of water.  The water is then heated to between 150°F - 165°F.  (This is the steeping range used for grains when brewing beer; which i do.  It is important to not exceed 170°F because tannins begin to leech into the water at that point and above.)  Once the water is above 150°F I toss in all the ingredients.  Then reduce the heat enough to keep the water in the temperature range.  Steep for 40 minutes.  Stir little or not at all.

Near 170°F i took the pot off the burner to cool it down some

After 40 minutes remove from heat and strain.  I first ladle out the big chunks then strain the rest through a paper towel.

Strained Tea

Then i measure the tea back into the rinsed pot.  Some water will have evaporated during the steep.  Replace that water to get back to the original amount.  Now place back on heat and bring to a near boil.  Remove from heat and add the 6 lbs. of sugar and stir.  The tea/syrup will be clear again in a few minutes.  After which I add 2 tablespoons of Bragg's Apple Cider Vinegar to each gallon.  Stir, let cool and give to bees.

My plan is to give the bees a gallon of syrup each week,  When they've finished it I'll give then a strait tea with no sugar for the rest of the week.  I'll post the results, hopefully good ones, soon.

*

First Pollen Coming into Hives

Today was almost warm at 69°F.  The bees were bringing in Pollen for the first time.  The neighbors Silver maple is beginning to bloom.  Which means the bees are bringing in nectar too.  The Skunk Cabbage in the back looks like it's blooming as well.  Last year the same tree bloomed on the 10th of March.  So it looks like we're almost a month ahead of last year.  Hopefully the pattern will continue for the rest of the season.  So we may be practicing swarm control early this year.  To that end I plan to pull brood frames to make nuc's and maybe make some slatted bottom racks.

*

Modified Hive Top Feeders

Since October of 2009 I've been using Hive Top Feeders in the hives.  I think they're great.  They hold a little over a gallon, they're internal, and the bees can't get out of them when i add syrup.  The few down sides are they are hard to lift off the hives if full and the bees only access is on the sides which is difficult in cold weather.  Which aren't big deals to me.  The one problem i don't enjoy is the constant propolising of the vents by the bees

Sealed Vents

Once sealed there is not enough of an air exchange in the hive to release moisture which then becomes condensation.  Not good if there is too much in Winter.

Really the bees didn't begin doing this till this past Fall.  Yet each week i had to scrape the propolis off all the HTF vents on all the hives.  It made the chore of refilling the HTF's take forever.  After the end of last Fall i looked into HTF's online.  I found where others had used the #8 mesh to close off the feeders instead of the plastic dividers my HTF's had.

#8 mesh is the same mesh used in Screened Bottom Boards.  I've never seen a bee propolis up one of those.  So i figure it should work well on my feeders.  It was easy to do.  Just pull off the plastic divider, trace it's outline on a sheet of mesh then cut out with tin shears.  The top bend is made by rolling the mesh against the plastic divider.  I used 3 - #14 x 1 inch sheet metal screws.  They do not make a tight fit but it's snug enough.

Old Plastic & New Mesh Dividers

Another good thing about the mesh is it will add foot holds for the bees.  The plastic dividers are smooth and the occasional bee would drown.  The mesh will seem like ladders to the bees so fewer bees should die.  The mesh is pliable so I'll need to watch how i handle & store them in the off season.  Overall these should make the HTF's even better.

**UPDATE**

The first two mesh dividers worked perfectly.  In 2011 two more were made that didn't fit well and let bees escape into the HTF.  All four of these used a design that was flat and stopped at the edge.  To fix the escaping bee issue new mesh was formed like a bucket that folded back at the edges.  This blocks any gaps that may occur when cutting to size.  Plus the mesh overlaps on ALL sides.

This flat design led to bees trapped in the HTF

- - -

This bucket design keeps the bees were they belong

*

Plans for 2011

The apiary will be expanding this year.  I have reserved 2 Packages from a local guy who drives down to Hardeman Apiary each year; they're in Mt. Vernon, GA.  At $70.00 bucks a crack i'm paying as much as i did last year for Duchess.  Which is good considering recent bee pricing.  If not i will at least get one package.

This, however, is not through the bee club, the Piedmont Beekeepers Association.  They are pushing for as many of us as possible to make Nucs from our own hives.  Mainly to sell to the beginners class students and then to whoever needs bees locally, before or after next winter.  Since the AHB has been found in GA the club opinion is to stop getting bees from down there.  Which is fine by me but i'd like to have more than two hives before i start making nucs.

I will be making Nucs this year though.  I don't know how many i'll make total but i plan to make at least 2.  Good conditions may allow for more.  I'll try to keep some extra boxes on hand for either nucs or swarms.   The last club meeting was on making Nucs.  Plus they covered 'Palmerization' which is turning an unproductive hive into all nucs.  Which i could have done last year to both Mary & Myrina.  Might have been carrying 6 to 10 nucs right through this winter if a had.  Then i would have had a replacement queen to put in Duchess in November instead of combining her into Mary.  Wish i had known that trick.

I hope to rear my own queens as well.  The February club meeting will address queen making.  I will need to requeen both Mary & Myrina again plus the two packages.  The Nucs will need queens also.  I don't look at beekeeping as a source of revenue but i would like to be able to meet my own needs.  Selling nucs can pay for a good bit of equipment.  I still want six hives at the house, plus a few more at a local farmers house.

This year is also when i will start the trek towards more natural beekeeping.  The goal is to have a yard filled with survivor bees.  Not this year but within maybe five years.  I have seen so many of them in trees and abandon buildings lately.  I know of three wild colonies nearby, plus Myrina was one originally; though i requeened her due to temperament. They all survive each winter and have been in their hives for years.  I just wish the hives were easier to get to.  One is a cut-out a mile and a half through the woods.  Not a hike i relish carrying a box of angry bees on.  The other two are just as difficult to get at.

These goals can be modified.  If i only get one package i can make additional nucs instead.  Though the big focus will be expansion of the bee yard i still hope to get a good batch of honey.  Both current colonies are strong and doing well this winter.  Neither has reached the top frames of it's hive yet.  When they do i have twenty honey filled frames in storage to give them; all from Duchess.  Plus i can give them sugar too.  Though i may begin feeding the bees in late February with syrup.

Mary's population is very large due to the combination.  I'll watch her closely for swarming.  I may be able to make a nuc or two from her without affecting her ability to produce honey.

More bees & lots of honey to all of you...

*

Winter Dreams

Came across this tonight.  Taken last Summer by my son in the bee yard.  It gave me a big smile.  So I thought I'd leave it here for everyone else who's waiting for Spring to arrive.

Sky Rocket & bee

*

Merging the Clusters

Was fortunate enough to have the odd warm day today at 56°F.  The bees were flying and the Sun was shining.  So at lunch i went out to the hives to remove the extra middle deep box on Mary.  Since the hive would be open only briefly the smoker was not used; though i still used the veil, jacket & gloves.

The top cluster was still in the same position in the top box.  Unfortunately the bottom cluster had moved up a little in to the once uninhabited middle box.  Which means all the boxes are being used.  However there's still 2 separate clusters.  I needed them to join.

The bottom cluster was much bigger than the top cluster.  I decided to shake the top cluster into the middle box.  So i had to pull frames to do it.  It was still in the high 50°'s so i did it quickly and closed her up.  Afterward the flying activity out of Mary increased but better matched that of Myrina.  Now both hives are double deeps again.

At this time I replaced the old (original) T-cover on Myrina with a new one; formally Duchess's T-cover.  Other than several frames in Myrina's  top box all the original equipment is gone.

*

Apistan Out & a Strange Cluster in Mary

Finally, a Fly Day in the high 50's.  Opened up each box of the hives and removed the Apistan strips that had been place there in late November.  Lots of bees were buzzing out of Myrina but only a few from Mary.  I saw a nice cluster in the top deep of Mary.  Then No bees in the middle deep.  Then a bigger cluster in the Bottom deep.  What does that mean?  I mentioned it on the bee forum.  Michael Bush said he had seen before were a cluster can split on a warm day.  There may be a virgin queen mixed in with the real queen.  Won't know 'till later in Spring when i can do an inspection.

Mary Top Deep

Mary Middle Deep

Mary Bottom Deep

Also i noticed no real condensation to worry about.  A smal drip here or a little dollop there.  Just enough to give the bees a water source inside the hive when it's to cold to fly.

Bees Drinking Condensation Water

I didn't see any pests but i didn't remove any frames either.  The uninsulated VB on Mary was replaced with a Insulated one and the nine hole uninsulated VB on Myrina was replaced with a three hole version.  Both VB's only have a single hole remaining open with tape over the other holes.  I had one pollen patty laying around so i cut it in half and put it in each hive.  It went directly on top of the frames.  Off-center from the middle towards the back.  Otherwise the hole in the Inner cover would have been blocked.

Myrina looked good with bees clustered in both boxes together.  All the deeps on Mary & Myrina are still heavy with honey and whatever pollen they collected last Fall.

Myrina Top Deep

Myrina Bottom Deep

After the quick opening and closing Mary's bees came out in force.

*

MYRINA'S CHRONICLE

September 25, 2011

r-SBB, SR, DHB1(bt), DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

September 15, 2011

r-SBB, SR, DHB1(bt), DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

September 4, 2011

r-SBB, SR, DHB1(bt), DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

August 28, 2011

(post link)

r-SBB, SR, DHB1(bt), DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

August 24, 2011

(post link)

r-SBB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, HTF, VB, TC
DBH1 = 10 frame, 3 PC & 7 CW
                              2 brood frames
DBH2 = 10 frame, 5 PC & 5 CW
                              3 brood frames
Queen Spotted = yes; marked white; frame #2 DHB2
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = spotty but OK
Queen Cells = no
Drone Cells = no
Honey Bound = no
Honey Stores = light
Pollen =  yes
Population = fair
Condensation = no
Pests = SHB (3) in DHB1

• Bees getting into HTF
• Added Beetle Trap (bt) to DHB1

August 21, 2011

(post link)

r-SBB, SR, DBH1, DBH2, IS, IC, TC

• Remove Imirie Shim (IS)
• Remove Inner Cover (IC)
• Add Hive Top Feeder (HTF)
• Add Vent Box (VB)
• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

July 9, 2011

(post link)

 SBB, SR, DBH1, DBH2, QE, MHS1, IS, MHS2, IC, TC

• Remove all Honey Supers
• Remove Queen Excluder
• Extract Honey
• Add Entrance Reducer (r)

June 1, 2011

(post link)
SBB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, QE, MHS1   , IC, TC

• Add 10 frame Medium honey super (MHS2), foundationless undrawn
• Add Imirie Shim between Honey Supers (IS)

May 29, 2011

(post link)

SBB, SR, DHB1, MHS1, DHB2,   IC, TC

• MHS1 mostly drawn out
• Return MHS1 to top of hive
• Add Queen Excluder (QE)

May 20, 2011

(post link)

SBB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IS, IC, TC

• Place MHS1 in between DHB1 & DHB2
• Remove Imirie Shim (IS)

May 11, 2011

(post link)
SBB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IS, IC, TC
DHB1 = 10 frame, 3 PC & 7 CW
                              5 brood frames
DHB2 = 10 frame, 5 PC & 5 CW
                              6 brood frames
MHS1 = 10 frame, 7 foundationless, 3 CW
Queen Spotted = yes, new & unmarked
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = spotty
Queen Cells = 18 Swarm cells & 1 Supersedure cell
Drone Cells = yes
Honey Bound = almost
Population = good
Condensation = no
Pests = no

•  *SWARMED*
• Removed all swarm cells both hatched & sealed
• Marked new Queen
• Left single Supersedure cell
• No laying in preparation of swarming
• Honey comb remains undrawn

May 9, 2011

r-SBB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IS, IC, TC

•  Remove Entrance Reducer

May 1, 2011

r-SBB(c), SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IS, IC, TC

• Open bottom of SBB

April 27, 2011

(post link)
r-SBB(c), SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, HTF, VB, TC

• Remove HTF
• Add IC
• Add Imirie Shim (IS)
• Remove VB

April 20, 2011

(post link)

r-SBB(c), SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, HTF, VB, TC

• Honey frames remain undrawn
• Remove 3 undrawn foundationless frames from MHS1
• Add 3 undrawn CW frames
• Spray frames w/ 1:1 syrup

April 19, 2011

r-SBB(c), SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV & Thyme oil

April 16, 2011

(post link)
r-SBB(c), SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IC, VB, TC

• Remove IC
• Add HTF
• Add 1 gal. 1:1 syrup w/ ACV & Thyme oil

April 10, 2011
(post link)
r-SBB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IC, VB, TC
Queen Spotted = yes (new unmarked)
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = solid (completely)
Drone Cells = yes (many)
Population = high
Condensation = no
Pest = none

• New unmarked Queen, frame #5 DHB2
• Marked New Queen with White paint
• Remove 4 frame of eggs from DHB2
• Add 4 empty drawn frames to DHB2, from Duchess CW
• Created Nuc #2

April 3, 2011

(post link)
r-SBB(c), DHB1, DHB2, IC, VB, TC
Pest = mold & mildew

• Add Slatted Rack (SR)
• Add 1 Medium Honey Super (MHS1) - Undrawn Foundationless
• Clean SBB Tray

March 12, 2011

(post link)
r-SBB(c), DHB1, DHB2, HTF, VB, TC
DHB1 = 10 frames, CW
                                 Brood frames = 6/10
DHB2 = 10 frames, Plasticell
                                 Brood frames = 0/10
Queen Spotted = didn't look
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = solid
Drone Cells = yes
Population = moderate
Condensation = no
Pest = mold & mildew

• Remove Luan SBB Tray
• Add Corrugated Plastic SBB Tray
• Replace DHB2 w/ new DHB
• Remove HTF
• Add IC

March 5, 2011

(post link) (post link)
r-SBB(c), DHB2, DHB1, HTF, VB, VB, TC
Condensation = no
Pest = mold & mildew

• Reversed Brood Boxes
• Remove 3-hole VB
• Weeping Pine Knots on DHB2
  

February 27, 2011
(post link)
r-SBB(c), DHB2, DHB1, HTF, VB, TC
Condensation = yes
Pest = mold & mildew

• Condensation Continues on TC
• Add 9-hole VB

February 23, 2011

(post link)
r-SBB(c), DHB2, DHB1, HTF, VB, TC
Condensation = yes

• Dripping Condensation on TC

February 18, 11
(post link)
r-SBB(c), DHB2, DHB1, IC, VB, T-cover
DHB1 = 10 frames, CW foundation (4old/6new)

Brood Frames = 3/10

DHB2 = 10 frames, PC foundation 

Brood Frames = 0/10

Queen Spotted = no
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = solid
Drone Cells = no
Population = moderate
Condensation = minor
Current Pests = mildew in DHB2 & SBB

• Pollen & Nectar begin 2/17/11
• Remove old Pollen patty
• Remove IC
• Add HTF
• Add 1 gal. 1:1 tea/syrup (poplar, maple, basswood, thyme, ACV) 

January 25, 2011

(post link)

r-SBB(c), DBH2, DBH1, IC, VB, TC

• Replace old Top Cover with new Top Cover (TC)

January 19, 2011

(post link)

r-SBB(c), DBH2, DBH1, IC, VB, TC

• Remove Apistan Strips
• Remove 9 hole VB
• Add 3 hole VB - 1 hole open
• Add 1/2 pollen patty on top box

*____________________________☼___________________________*

MARY'S CHRONICLE 2011

September 25, 2011

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

September 15, 2011

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

September 4, 2011

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

August 28, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

August 21, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, IS, IC, TC

• Remove Imirie Shim (IS)
• Remove Inner Cover (IC)
• Add Hive Top Feeder (HTF)
• Add Vent Box (VB)
• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV, Thyme & Peppermint oils

July 9, 2011

(post link)

 BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, QE, MHS1, IS, MHS2, IC, TC

• Remove all Honey Supers
• Remove Queen Excluder
• EXTRACT HONEY
• Add Entrance Reducer (r)

June 1, 2011

(post link)

BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2(bt), QE, MHS1, IS, IC, TC

• Add Medium Honey Super (MHS2) - undrawn foundationless
• Remove beetle traps (bt)

May 20, 2011

(post link)

BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2(bt), MHS1, IC, TC

• Eggs on 3 frames in MHS1
• Remove and chill egg frames
• Add modified Queen Excluder (QE)
• Return chilled frames
• Add Imirie Shim (IS)

May 16, 2011

(post link)

BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2(bt), MHS1, IC, TC
DHB1 = 10 frame, 8 PC & 2 CW
                              4 brood frames
DHB2 = 10 frame, 8 PC, 1 CW & 1 Foundationless
                              8 brood frames
MHS1 =10 frame, 7 Foundationless & 3 PC
Queen Spotted = yes, frame 7 - DHB2
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = spotty
Drone Cells = yes
Population = good
Condensation = no
Pests = Chalkbrood

• Pile of Chalkbrood outside entrance
• Removed comb, frame 7 of DHB2 solid drone
• Remove Swarm cups

May 9, 2011
r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2(bt), MHS1, IC, TC

• Remove Entrance Reducer

April 27, 2011
(post link)
r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2 , MHS1, HTF, VB, TC
Pests = odd dark debris in cells

• Remove HTF
• Add IC
• Add 1 SHB Beetle Trap (bt) to DHB2 w/mineral oil
• Cut out  all comb on 1 frame DHB2 (drone)
• Remove VB

April 20, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, HTF, VB, TC

• Frames remain undrawn
• Remove 3 undrawn foundationless frames from MHS1
• Add 3 partially drawn PC frames
• Spray frames w/ 1:1 syrup

April, 19, 2011
r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, HTF, VB, TC

• Add 1 gal. 1:1 syrup w/ACV & Thyme oil

April 16, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, SR, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IC, VB, TC

• Remove IC
• Add HTF
• Add 1 gal 1:1 syrup w/ACV & Thyme oil

April 3, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IC, VB, TC

• Add Slatted Rack (SR)

March 22, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, DHB1, DHB2, MHS1, IC, VB, TC
DHB1 = 10 frames, Plasticell
                               Brood frames = 6/10
DHB2 = 10 frames, Plasticell
                               Brood frames = 4/10
MHS1 = 10 frames, Foundationless
                               Drawn out = 0/10 
Queen Spotted = yes DHB1/f3
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = solid
Drone Cells = yes
Population = good
Condensation = no
Pest = Chalkbrood

• Create Nuc#1
• Remove 2 egg frames from DHB1
• Add 2 undrawn foundationless frame to DHB1
• Remove 1 egg frame from DHB2
• Add 1 undrawn foundationless frame to DHB2
• Removed all bees clinging to quiet box (approx 1 frame)

March 12, 2011

(post link)

r-BB, DHB1, DHB2,  HTF, VB, TC
DHB1 = 10 frames, Plasticell
                               Brood frames = 5/10
DHB2 = 10 frames, Plasticell
                               Brood frames = 3/10
Queen Spotted = didn't Look
Brood Present = yes
Brood Pattern = solid
Drone Cells = yes
Population = good
Condensation = none
Pests = Chalkbrood

• Replace 1 frame in DBH2 w/ undrawn foundationless
• Add 1 Medium Honey Super (MHS1) - undrawn foundationless
• Remove HTF
• Add IC

February 18, 11
(post link)
r-BB, DHB1, DHB2, IC, i-VB, T-cover
DHB1 = 10 frames, Plasticell foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

DHB2 = 10 frames, Plasticell foundation

Brood Frames = 3/10

Queen Spotted = yes
Brood Present= yes
Brood Pattern = solid
Drone Cells = no
Population = good
Condensation = minor
Current Pest = none

• Pollen & Nectar begin 2/17/11
• Queen on frame #3 in DHB2
• Remove old Pollen patty
• Remove IC
• Remove insulation from VB
• Add HTF
• Add 1 gal. 1:1 tea/syrup (poplar, maple, basswood, thyme, ACV)

JANUARY 25, 11
(post link)
r-BB, DHB1, DHB2, DBH3, IC, i-VB , T-cover
DHB1 = 10 frames, Plasticell foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

DHB2 = 10 frames, Plasticell foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

DHB3 = 10 frames, Crimped-Wire foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

Population = critical, low, moderate, good, (high)
Condensation = none, (minor), major

• Remove DHB3 
• Frames in freezer

January 19, 11
(post link)
r-BB, DHB1, DHB2, DBH3, IC, VB, T-cover
DHB1 = 10 frames, Plasticell foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

DHB2 = 10 frames, Plasticell foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

DHB3 = 10 frames, Crimped-Wire foundation

Brood Frames = 0/10

Population = critical, low, moderate, good, (high)
Condensation = none, (minor), major

• Remove Apistan Strips
• Add Insulated VB - 1 of 3 holes open (i-VB)
• Add 1/2 a Pollen Patty on top of frames in top box

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